Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and tourists equally praising its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a international community of cities cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city is little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its essence: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known delights that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to learn these stories and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
